New n54 Intake manifold to enter the market.

martymil

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The manifold should work on an n55 but without having a manifold to see the difference to make the right modifications its only a guess.

I wanted something that works and doesnt cost too much and considering whats on offer we succeeded without having the name plastered all over it.

Starting at 1700 usd for a billet manifold thats 200 less than ff was and less than half the weight and only 99 dollar shipping almost anywhere in the world.

Thanks guys, Tony should be getting his any day now.and he has some cars ready for testing.
 
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martymil

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I haven't kept up with all the posts here... what's the current plan for the throttle body/intercooler piping, etc?

I know the harness is an issue due to the plug style but depinning it and extending it is no big deal.

It's easy if you know how to solder and use heatshrink, a local auto electrician can do this in less than 30 min if the manifold is out of the car.

Bms will sell you extended harness for the map sensor if you ask nicely. Around 30cm should suffice

Cant make pipes for these as when you get to this level most people have modified their cars where one size does not suit all.
 
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Torgus

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Just an FYI, you are much better off crimping than soldering any connection that experiences vibration. It is also easier and faster.

If I wasn't all about my suspension and getting my car ready for some fun I would pick one of these up.
 
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FRNTHVY

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I used Deutsch connectors and Raychem to extend mine. I believe it is much better than solder for sure. Good luck!

24516
 
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The Convert

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I never could understand why people don’t de-pin the oem tb connector and just add a new connector that they can get male-female of and move the oem to the end. No soldering or crimping and easily reversed. You could literally do this for every connector that needs the harness lengthened.
 
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martymil

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I personally prefer cutting and soldering as there is less chance of failure when done correctly and doesn't cost anything except a little time and effort.

But if I can get the part numbers of the connectors I can have them made for the ones that want to go that way at cost to me + shipping.
 

The Convert

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I personally prefer cutting and soldering as there is less chance of failure when done correctly and doesn't cost anything except a little time and effort.

But if I can get the part numbers of the connectors I can have them made for the ones that want to go that way at cost to me + shipping.
Soldering should not be done in areas with vibrations. There was a thread about this a while ago. Areas of vibration should use crimp connections. You can argue this, but just know you’ll be wrong. I believe @Torgus was the one who presented the white papers.
 
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NoQuarter

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I never could understand why people don’t de-pin the oem tb connector and just add a new connector that they can get male-female of and move the oem to the end. No soldering or crimping and easily reversed. You could literally do this for every connector that needs the harness lengthened.

This exactly how my hpfp project is going. Depin the OEM and convert to a more standard plug.
 

martymil

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Soldering should not be done in areas with vibrations. There was a thread about this a while ago. Areas of vibration should use crimp connections. You can argue this, but just know you’ll be wrong. I believe @Torgus was the one who presented the white papers.

I have soldered connections that are now 30 years old on historic cars and bikes with no failures and still going today.

When done correctly they will never fail in our life time, how many oem corroded connections I've seen even on cars under 10 years old
that I had to fix and lost count.

Like I said I can make the extension harnesses as soon as I get the part numbers for the ones that wish to go that way.
 

The Convert

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I have soldered connections that are now 30 years old on historic cars and bikes with no failures and still going today.

When done correctly they will never fail in our life time, how many oem corroded connections I've seen even on cars under 10 years old
that I had to fix and lost count.

Like I said I can make the extension harnesses as soon as I get the part numbers for the ones that wish to go that way.
You can also replace brake pads without turning or replacing the rotors and the brakes will still work fine, but that doesn’t mean it’s the correct, or best, way to go about it.
 
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fmorelli

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True, but theory and practice. As I recall, TÜV says change brake fluid every 24 months because it is hygroscopic. In 30 years of doing cars, I would tell you that replacing brake fluid every 24 months on a street car goes against my experience having owned 30+ cars and having only ever done brake fluid changes when doing brake changes (which was not every 2 years!) ... that is except for road race cars I owned (which ran completely different fluids). But the BMW dealer will tell us to do it. Our BMW will warn us to do it. TÜV has professionals with research that will tell you to do it. BTW Ferrari says every year and Mercedes says every 20k miles. I'm laughing my ass off right now.

Which is to say - experience trumps. Like 3k mile oil changes.

Filippo
 
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Rcboosted2007

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You can also replace brake pads without turning or replacing the rotors and the brakes will still work fine, but that doesn’t mean it’s the correct, or best, way to go about it.
Lmfao, every brake change! I will see if we can ground all current flights with planes using soldered electronics. These guys are hilarious.

I wonder if i open this phone up if i will find soldering or crimps :tearsofjoy:
 

martymil

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Lol guys I will be making crimped for the ones that want it once I get the part numbers, no need to get into a debate over it.

We have about 6 cars here with the ff manifold all soldered connections with absolutely no issues and they been done by
the local auto electrician with over 20 years experience, his work comes with a lifetime warranty.

I think the cars will be worn out or gone by the time if ever a problem develops with age.