Clark Performance Fab 135i

Mar 14, 2017
418
346
0
Minot, ND
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2010 135i
Well, shit happens. I was out logging last weekend and ended up spinning the crank hub a bit and threw timing off. I’m parting out the car unless someone wants to buy it whole. Engine still runs but timing is off a hair and hub will need to get replaced or it will continue to slip. Buyer covers paypal and shipping fees. Location is Minot, ND. All parts are still on the car and will need to be removed prior to shipping. Going a very different route now.


N54 engine 70k miles with slipped crank hub, compression is still good and can show video of it running - $1200
Manual transmission 70k miles - $1000
MFactory Twin Disc 6 bolt unsprung hub w/ 1500 miles - $1200
MFactory 3.08 LSD whole pumpkin with bearings replaced 2500 miles - $1900
PSP 900 FMIC with 3” up pipe - $550
BKC manifold anodized black with bosch 750 cc injectors, fuel hose, and twisted tuning phenolic spacer - $850
JB4 G5 - $325
BMS PI controller $250
135i driveshaft - $200
MFactory axles (new) - $900
ACF PCV deletes - $60
Custom front mount oil cooler with PSP thermostat delete plate and 180 degree derale thermostat - $225

I’m also posting everything on a sale thread.
 
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Mar 14, 2017
418
346
0
Minot, ND
Ride
2010 135i
Hate to hear this. Any explanation as to what could have happened? Or how you exactly diagnosed what happened?
Pretty sure it was just torque. The crank bolt didn’t back out and the VANOS corrected and saved the engine. I started the car up Saturday morning and got these codes. Didn’t start up at first but after a lot of cranks it eventually did fire. Cams are in time, crank isn’t.
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Mar 14, 2017
418
346
0
Minot, ND
Ride
2010 135i
Got the block on the stand and I’m ordering some basic stuff from Jegs today for a minor rebuild. Gonna throw on a rear sump oil pan and replace the head bolts. Also had to grab some new valve covers for the heads going on. Its a 1997 5.7 block and I’m using C5 vette heads for a hair better flow. No fancy parts till its in the car and running so I can test everything out. I have three routes for tuning I’m balancing right now. I have the stock ECU and a painless harness. I might get the engine in and start it using the stock ecu just to test everything out. The two standalone ECUs I’m deciding between for final running are the Megasquirt 3 and Holley Dominator. Both are great but the Holley is much more user friendly and considerably pricier (nothing compared to most BMW parts though). The engine is also drive by cable so I’ll be replacing the throttle pedal too. I have a clutch line adapter on the way and I’ll be using my old fuel pumps and fuel line. The transmission is a T56. I have a ford 8.8 differential on the way and I’ll be using custom driveshaft shop axles and driveshaft. For startup I’ll be using a 3/8 quick connect to dash 6 adapter and feeding one pump triggered with the ECU to the stock LS1 fuel rail. Lot of work ahead of me for sure but this will be one cool project when its done.
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Mar 14, 2017
418
346
0
Minot, ND
Ride
2010 135i
Also, the N54 ST is still for sale. If everyone is wanting to see the engine swap progress quickly I’ll need that thing gone to pay for some of the swap parts. Make an offer because I need a sale sooner rather than later and I might be able to cut a deal.
 

Torgus

Brigadier General
Nov 6, 2016
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Boston
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ACF 6466 E92 + METH
Got the block on the stand and I’m ordering some basic stuff from Jegs today for a minor rebuild. Gonna throw on a rear sump oil pan and replace the head bolts. Also had to grab some new valve covers for the heads going on. Its a 1997 5.7 block and I’m using C5 vette heads for a hair better flow. No fancy parts till its in the car and running so I can test everything out. I have three routes for tuning I’m balancing right now. I have the stock ECU and a painless harness. I might get the engine in and start it using the stock ecu just to test everything out. The two standalone ECUs I’m deciding between for final running are the Megasquirt 3 and Holley Dominator. Both are great but the Holley is much more user friendly and considerably pricier (nothing compared to most BMW parts though). The engine is also drive by cable so I’ll be replacing the throttle pedal too. I have a clutch line adapter on the way and I’ll be using my old fuel pumps and fuel line. The transmission is a T56. I have a ford 8.8 differential on the way and I’ll be using custom driveshaft shop axles and driveshaft. For startup I’ll be using a 3/8 quick connect to dash 6 adapter and feeding one pump triggered with the ECU to the stock LS1 fuel rail. Lot of work ahead of me for sure but this will be one cool project when its done.
View attachment 13521

So cool. Purest might hate an LS swap but how can you? Can't wait to see the progress.
 
Mar 14, 2017
418
346
0
Minot, ND
Ride
2010 135i
Steve,
I’m a BMW purest. I’m having trouble accepting a non-BMW engine in a BMW chassis. It’s just me.

BTW - love your rear diff lock down bracket.

Best of luck!
Totally understand. I expected to get an equal amount of love and hate for taking this route. But at the end of the day, its a track car. And with the N54 I haven’t made it to the track in two years because of having one issue after another. The LS will be a much easier engine to tune and modify and doesn’t have near as many fragile and temperamental points to work around. And thanks for the feedback on the bracket! I’m doing my best to balance production time with administrative work and still find time to work on the shop car. I want to do my best to have a CPF bracket on every performance E90 platform car out there.
 
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Mar 14, 2017
418
346
0
Minot, ND
Ride
2010 135i
Got the 5.7 block stripped yesterday and the 8.8 showed up. The L33 should be here later this week. And the mounts should arrive too. I’ll spend next weekend mocking the engine, trans, and differential up to get measurements for the axles and driveshaft. I picked up a cheap set of stainless hugger headers from ebay that I’ll be modifying to build the turbo manifold.
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