Addressing N5x oiling and spun rod bearings (Accusump installed)

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Relegate

New Member
Oct 8, 2019
4
So regarding dual oil coolers.... I have a large setrab type oil cooler connected to the oem thermostat, and I still have the problem described. If the engine oil pump picks up air, I dont think it makes any difference how much oil is sitting in the oil cooler? The in/outlets are located on the top of my oil cooler, so the air would just push right though.

I also have a second oil cooler, which is driven by an electric pump connected to the front and rear of the oil sump, circulating the oil in the oil pan. I did try turning that pump on and off, and it doesn't make any difference in regards to the oil pressure issue. It just lowers the oil temps a bit. The oil is moved from the rear of the pan, ie out side the baffle, to the front of the pan. It makes sense that it doesn't help with oil pressure, because the issue happens when I trail brake, where the oil would already have moved towards the front of the baffle. In fact it might help to reverse the pump, but then I have the issue where it might run dry when accelerating. The rear of the pan is lower than the front.

And in general I would say, spend all the available cooling space on radiators instead of oil cooling. Three days ago a friend of mine hit +118C with this S55 on track, while his oil temps barely moved past 120C. My M135i friend would also hit power reduction due to coolant rather than oil temps here in the southern chinese humid heat.

If you update rods and bearings, you risk a bad installation which could lead to premature failure. Really I would say the easy answer is to go S55. It also has a pump to pull oil from the turbos under high G forces.

Regarding turbos for tracking you need something with headroom, so they have an easy job, and a turbo that uses the best exhaust wheel material that can handle the elevated egts. Look at the M235i racing. OEM turbos and less than stock power. That is my best advice. But you wont listen to that hahaha - I certainly didn't myself. Also look at the M235iR control arms for great inspiration.
Lot's of great points here! I have seen 3 S55's break at the track (1 the day my bearings went) and I know the crank hub fixes seem to work. I had actually considered just selling my 135i and grabbing and M2 Comp, but I'm not in a position to take on that payment increase. (the dealers are offering good deals on 2019's).

The engine rebuild would be done by a local BMW guy who builds E36/46 race cars for our AER series here in the states. His cars go very well, but the caveat is he is very busy and this would be side-work for him.... but I have time on my hands.

Is there a way to get the M2+ N55 dual pick-up (and pan) for our engines? I've been scouring the ebay, etc and haven't seen anything.

I've been running stock turbo, with JB4, then MHD and MHD was misfiring like crazy... I heard from some people the burble tune on track can cause issues? So, anyhow, I resigned to stock tune and kept improving lap times. But, I did run stickier tires (I normally run RE71 or NT01 and switched to the AR-1.) I chased down a supercharged e92 M3 and that's when the oil temps went crazy and I shut down on track (300F).

Plan for rebuild is a CSF 7046 Radiator as I have a DCT. I hear you about the aeration issues with any oil cooler.

I also run RaceLouvers.com hood extractors which have definitely helped with coolant temps as well as aero.
31841
 

Relegate

New Member
Oct 8, 2019
4
Here is a link to the M2 oil pick up- $87.62 USD. Would this work on our engines with the rest of the parts? (Pan, etc?) The more I read... the more I want to walk away. I lost the engine in my 911 and sold it as a roller and bought this 135i with that money. I had to replace the DME after a short (no thanks in part to the JB4 it seems) and I'm sort of over putting money into fixing things when I haven't even addressed the REAL upgrades (cooling, suspension, lsd). Maybe I take the $10k I would put into this car and just get something else?!
 
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Bnks334

Sergeant
Dec 1, 2016
347
New York
Here is a link to the M2 oil pick up- $87.62 USD. Would this work on our engines with the rest of the parts? (Pan, etc?) The more I read... the more I want to walk away. I lost the engine in my 911 and sold it as a roller and bought this 135i with that money. I had to replace the DME after a short (no thanks in part to the JB4 it seems) and I'm sort of over putting money into fixing things when I haven't even addressed the REAL upgrades (cooling, suspension, lsd). Maybe I take the $10k I would put into this car and just get something else?!
I provided a pretty lengthy reply over on 1addicts. As for ditching the chassis, it's really a financial decision for you to make lol. They aren't worth much as a roller and a used engine is fairly affordable in the grand scheme of things. You're in PA, right? I'll come scoop up your old engine lol. I wouldn't pay someone to rebuild to stock spec. Either go all out or just drop in something used. You can throw in some new bearings and re-seal it on the engine stand.

Do your own research before you become an example of the saying "grass is always greener." I know someone was raving on addicts about how they moved to an 8th gen civic and how great it is already with only a few mods... well, google "8th gen civic oil starvation," or, "BRZ oil starvation," if you want to see things of nightmares. All you see at HPDE is S55 and BMW's blowing up? Maybe that's because that's all you pay attention to lol. Not too many cars out there can run a race pace without needing to be heavily modified so pick your poison. This is why spec series are so popular. It keeps costs down vs being the fastest car ever like in some unlimited class time trial event...

M2 oil pan setup is not direct bolt-on. you need to fabricate a bracket to hold the power steering pump. Otherwise, you need the pan, pump, and pickup tube. It's not exactly an affordable solution either. I have seen some steals on Ebay, but, it's not a high volume car where there are a plethora of junkyard parts available. We could use an aftermarket oil pan. 1/2-1" deeper would fit fine and go a long way. Extended pickup tube to match. Shouldn't be too hard for someone to modify a stock pan for you. That's what N20's have done. Not sure to what success though. Combine that with a BETTER than vac's baffle.

The Accusump seems to work as advertised. I've provided logs a few times now to show the difference across autocross runs. I ran a 1:34.6 at thunderbolt earlier this season but didn't log oil pressures. I'm honestly not overly concerned about it. I was tracking this car for 3 year before it went. With the Accusump, I would bet I'll get at least another three years. This season has been great and I've put 8k miles on the rebuild so far. Maybe i'll drop the pan to see what the bearings look like over this winter.
 
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Asbjorn

Sergeant
Mar 10, 2018
426
Europe, based in China
Lot's of great points here! I have seen 3 S55's break at the track (1 the day my bearings went) and I know the crank hub fixes seem to work. I had actually considered just selling my 135i and grabbing and M2 Comp, but I'm not in a position to take on that payment increase. (the dealers are offering good deals on 2019's).

The engine rebuild would be done by a local BMW guy who builds E36/46 race cars for our AER series here in the states. His cars go very well, but the caveat is he is very busy and this would be side-work for him.... but I have time on my hands.

Is there a way to get the M2+ N55 dual pick-up (and pan) for our engines? I've been scouring the ebay, etc and haven't seen anything.

I've been running stock turbo, with JB4, then MHD and MHD was misfiring like crazy... I heard from some people the burble tune on track can cause issues? So, anyhow, I resigned to stock tune and kept improving lap times. But, I did run stickier tires (I normally run RE71 or NT01 and switched to the AR-1.) I chased down a supercharged e92 M3 and that's when the oil temps went crazy and I shut down on track (300F).

Plan for rebuild is a CSF 7046 Radiator as I have a DCT. I hear you about the aeration issues with any oil cooler.

I also run RaceLouvers.com hood extractors which have definitely helped with coolant temps as well as aero. View attachment 31841
Nice car!

Don't bother with the CSF radiator. It doesn't improve cooling. We are way down on cooler area compared to the S55, so start by increasing area instead of thickness.

As for the S55, here most of them overheat due to the dct oil temp actually. Have seen a few examples of that. Only seen one example where an S55 overheated due to water temps.

I provided a pretty lengthy reply over on 1addicts. As for ditching the chassis, it's really a financial decision for you to make lol. They aren't worth much as a roller and a used engine is fairly affordable in the grand scheme of things. You're in PA, right? I'll come scoop up your old engine lol. I wouldn't pay someone to rebuild to stock spec. Either go all out or just drop in something used. You can throw in some new bearings and re-seal it on the engine stand.

Do your own research before you become an example of the saying "grass is always greener." I know someone was raving on addicts about how they moved to an 8th gen civic and how great it is already with only a few mods... well, google "8th gen civic oil starvation," or, "BRZ oil starvation," if you want to see things of nightmares. All you see at HPDE is S55 and BMW's blowing up? Maybe that's because that's all you pay attention to lol. Not too many cars out there can run a race pace without needing to be heavily modified so pick your poison. This is why spec series are so popular. It keeps costs down vs being the fastest car ever like in some unlimited class time trial event...

M2 oil pan setup is not direct bolt-on. you need to fabricate a bracket to hold the power steering pump. Otherwise, you need the pan, pump, and pickup tube. It's not exactly an affordable solution either. I have seen some steals on Ebay, but, it's not a high volume car where there are a plethora of junkyard parts available. We could use an aftermarket oil pan. 1/2-1" deeper would fit fine and go a long way. Extended pickup tube to match. Shouldn't be too hard for someone to modify a stock pan for you. That's what N20's have done. Not sure to what success though. Combine that with a BETTER than vac's baffle.

The Accusump seems to work as advertised. I've provided logs a few times now to show the difference across autocross runs. I ran a 1:34.6 at thunderbolt earlier this season but didn't log oil pressures. I'm honestly not overly concerned about it. I was tracking this car for 3 year before it went. With the Accusump, I would bet I'll get at least another three years. This season has been great and I've put 8k miles on the rebuild so far. Maybe i'll drop the pan to see what the bearings look like over this winter.
Some great ideas here! Thanks for sharing.
 

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