Öhlins Services

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Corporal
Platinum Vendor
Jun 4, 2018
146
Did you know we are a certified Öhlins service center?

ohlins authorized service.png


All Öhlins suspension kits purchased from 3DM Motorsport receive one free re-valve and 20% off of all Öhlins services.

3DM Motorsport Öhlins Service Options:

Re-valving Service


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Valving is a term for the force a damper makes depending how fast (velocity) the suspension is moving up and down (bump and droop). Valving is determined by many factors such as the use case (street or track), spring rates, motion ratios, chassis control, driving style and more. In other words, there is a lot more to it than simply controlling the spring.

Rebuild Service

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We get this question all the time… “how often do I need to service my Öhlins dampers?” The short answer is, it depends. A suspension is a moving mechanical device. Just like an engine, the oil breaks down and parts wear out. Service intervals are dependent on may factors such as environment (salty roads), road quality (pot holes), type of use (street or track), and more. Please Contact Us and we can aid in what re-build service interval is best for you.
Service interval references for DFV based dampers
  • The 2020 Volvo polestar uses the Öhlins Road and Track damper and passed a 100,000 mile endurance test.
  • We saw a dedicated track Porsche go for over 100 hours of track use with no problems! When they were serviced they looked almost brand new!
Dyno Service

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  • Check Up Test: This is a simple test to ensure your damper is working properly. This test is done to compare to either an historic dyno test or to compare to make sure the left and right dampers are working the same. This is typically done to a non-adjustable damper or to a damper that has been rebuilt to confirm proper assembly.
  • Clicker Sweep Test: This test measures the entire adjustable range of a damper.
  • Custom Test: We offer CVP, PVP, advanced clicker sweeps, gas pressure effects, and more.

Repair Service

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Sometimes accidents happen, you drop a part never for it to be found again (clicker knobs are notorious for this). Wrecks can damage shock parts. Shock damage can occur as collateral damage from other part failures (control arm ball joints for example).
We offer repair services for all Öhlins dampers. Repair items include rubber mounting bushings, top plate spherical bearings, clicker knobs, or any other external part.
Many times repairs can be made yourself! Please see our Öhlins Spare Parts Catalog and Contact Us, we are happy to guide you through simple repairs.
Customization Service

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For example, Öhlins Road and Track DFV suspension kits are designed to work with OEM mounts however there are many aftermarket mount options such as adjustable camber plates. Often times these aftermarket mounts are generic and require special spacers to make them fit an Öhlins damper. We offer custom part fabrication to fit your Öhlins damper to your favorite aftermarket mounts.


For more details and pricing, check out our site:
 
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derekgates

Sergeant
Feb 23, 2018
274
NW FL
If I can get my 335is back in a state of 'working' I will certainly be contacting you. (Trying to get an M3 Diff installed but running into issues getting a driveshaft shortened in my area).

My problem is I have a set of Ohlins that are bone stock for the 335i that I have been struggling to get to a 'non bouncing' state. I am not sure if I need to revalve them after daily driving for more than a year or if I need different springs. Undulations in the road seem to cause feedback and instead of being 'handled' it bounces. I've tried soft vs hard settings on the strut itself, I've replaced quite a bit of bushings/arms (M3) and added stiffening braces (M3) as well as adjusting ride height. Might be worth sending off to you to inspect...
 

[email protected]

Corporal
Platinum Vendor
Jun 4, 2018
146
If I can get my 335is back in a state of 'working' I will certainly be contacting you. (Trying to get an M3 Diff installed but running into issues getting a driveshaft shortened in my area).

My problem is I have a set of Ohlins that are bone stock for the 335i that I have been struggling to get to a 'non bouncing' state. I am not sure if I need to revalve them after daily driving for more than a year or if I need different springs. Undulations in the road seem to cause feedback and instead of being 'handled' it bounces. I've tried soft vs hard settings on the strut itself, I've replaced quite a bit of bushings/arms (M3) and added stiffening braces (M3) as well as adjusting ride height. Might be worth sending off to you to inspect...
I can stick them on the dyno and check them out. If there is a problem we can fix it. I'd also say that while they are off and in my hands it might be worth going ahead and re-valving anyways. What springs do you have... the original 60 N/mm front and 70 N/mm rear?

Barry
 

derekgates

Sergeant
Feb 23, 2018
274
NW FL
I can stick them on the dyno and check them out. If there is a problem we can fix it. I'd also say that while they are off and in my hands it might be worth going ahead and re-valving anyways. What springs do you have... the original 60 N/mm front and 70 N/mm rear?

Barry
Agree. You are convincing me I should probably pull them while car is on jack stands (like it has been for the past months).

Yessir, the stock springs. I'd certainly consider an upgrade on those (Swift) if needed. I avoided the spring upgrade until I could evaluate the stock Ohlins setup. I could never get it 'right', and have logs of some adjustments:

1582838088417.png


I have camber plates on the car but the rear end seems to cause more issues than front. I worry that some of the M3 arms caused an upset in the rear end that I just am not seeing. I plan on replacing sway bar bushings soon. I've already done subframe bushings. Front-end has new LCA with sphericals and I've replaced all bushings up there. The camber plates or *something* clunks as well. Sheesh this car..



And unfortunately, I also had issues with Koni Yellows and Swift Spec R springs which I was hoping Ohline were going to solve..

Koni Yellows with Swift Spec-R spings log:
1582838167628.png


My apologies making this into a "lets play what is wrong with my car" but I just wanted to highlight some frustrations I've had.

A service/checkup of suspension and possibility of different spring rates would be great. :D
 
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[email protected]

Corporal
Platinum Vendor
Jun 4, 2018
146
Agree. You are convincing me I should probably pull them while car is on jack stands (like it has been for the past months).

My apologies making this into a "lets play what is wrong with my car" but I just wanted to highlight some frustrations I've had.

A service/checkup of suspension and possibility of different spring rates would be great. :D
Not a problem, i'm glad to help. First... FYI the Ohlins springs are linear springs. The BMS Mi00 kit comes with a 60 N/mm linear front spring and a 70 N/mm linear rear spring.

What brand camber plates are you running? Since you raised the car back up to stock ride height, I have a fear that you might be "topping" out the shocks which could be part of the cause of the bounciness, IE not enough droop travel. If you jack the car up, how much does the wheel droop before it starts lifting off the ground?

I spent a lot of time tweaking the valving on this kit. I use a 70 N/mm front spring and a 120 N/mm rear spring. Not sure if you know "Torgus" on this forum but give him a shout and he can give you some feedback on this setup.

If budget is a concern, at minimum I recommend switching to the 120 N/mm rear spring and having the shock valved to match. The 60 N/mm front and valving is not bad.

I noticed you installed the Ohlins in March 2015. How many miles are on them?

Lastly, what rear upper shock mounts are you running?

Cheers,
Barry
 

derekgates

Sergeant
Feb 23, 2018
274
NW FL
Not a problem, i'm glad to help. First... FYI the Ohlins springs are linear springs. The BMS Mi00 kit comes with a 60 N/mm linear front spring and a 70 N/mm linear rear spring.

What brand camber plates are you running? Since you raised the car back up to stock ride height, I have a fear that you might be "topping" out the shocks which could be part of the cause of the bounciness, IE not enough droop travel. If you jack the car up, how much does the wheel droop before it starts lifting off the ground?
You are correct on linear, I am not sure why I have progressive in there. Must have been a brain fart from the Spec-R springs mindset? Hmm. (I blame old age)


Great questions!

I considered it being 'topping' out as well. I tried to follow the Ohlins recommendations in the manual for preloading and overall height using the wrenches... But when I review the install photos... hmm:

IMG_5951.JPG
IMG_6018.JPG


I was first using Dinan fixed plates but the dealer was unable to 'even out the camber' between sides. I am now using Vorshlag plates. Installed 300mi after the Ohlins.

IMG_1468.jpeg



I have the car 'in the air' as of right now but the front end is on ramps, I need to purchase more BMW 'square' pads for my jackstands before I can answer that question.

I went out and took a picture of a few minutes ago... I measured 14" from center of wheel to fender:
IMG_1331.jpeg



I seem to only have pictures of front end in the air (without wheels unfortunately), not really able to answer the droop question and I just can't remember things like that unfortunately... :(
IMG_1486.jpeg
IMG_6010.JPG



I spent a lot of time tweaking the valving on this kit. I use a 70 N/mm front spring and a 120 N/mm rear spring. Not sure if you know "Torgus" on this forum but give him a shout and he can give you some feedback on this setup.

If budget is a concern, at minimum I recommend switching to the 120 N/mm rear spring and having the shock valved to match. The 60 N/mm front and valving is not bad.
That sounds good to me!

I need to get through this ordeal with the M3 rear end (driveshaaaaft) before I can jump on this, but these recommendations are sounding fantastic to me. @fmorelli praises your abilities and skills and I would love a 'piece of that'. :D


I noticed you installed the Ohlins in March 2015. How many miles are on them?

Lastly, what rear upper shock mounts are you running?

Cheers,
Barry
Sorry, that second screenshot couldn't fit the header, in which those were my Koni Yellows with Spec-R springs installed in 2015.
The Ohlins were 2017.

I was trying to illustrate with that 'note screenshot' that I was attempting to tackle bounciness and bad ride height previous to the Ohlins as well. It turned out that the Konis were completely shot when I removed them for the Ohlins. They were a terrible purchase and the Spec-R springs dropped my car to the ground which I could never fix (even with spring pads in the rear). It was horrific.

Koni with Spec-R:
IMG_3446.JPG


🤮🤢🤮🤢🤮


Fixed that ride height with Ohlins :yum: :
IMG_6115.JPG
IMG_0760.jpeg



Rear upper mount is the Powerflex kit (or half of it)... I don't have it in my modification spreadsheet unfortunately. I can't remember if every poly part was able to be used on my car. There was some weird fitment with this. I just can't remember this stuff over the years. Otherwise it is new OEM bushings where applicable (and not replaced with Ohlins parts).
1582856584100.png


I am using AKG rear lower mounts:
IMG_5982.JPG


My plan was to eliminate slop in the rear end through the M3 arms, subframe bushing upgrades, Megan toe arms, upper/lower rear shock mounts, camber plates, spherical LCA, etc and let the coilovers do the heavy lifting. Comfort was a concern to a point; I wanted to eliminate slop (as I feel the 335i is made for grandpas driving to church in stock form, like driving a foam mattress). Maybe that was a mistake...


Mileage on the Ohlins is right around 30k miles.
I installed them with 74,320mi on the odometer and I am right around 104k now.


I've been long irritated with this suspension and many other aspects of this car (I call it the devil car) so I am excited to get some improvements made! Otherwise it has to leave my life as it has sucked my bank account dry and just wants more with turbos, oil leaks, suspension and M3 diff problems. My i3s is such a relief for me; it is incredibly consistent in drive-ability and handles like a dream...

Whew, this was long winded and I hope I am not crapping all over this thread. I can certainly move this content to another thread if needed.
 
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Torgus

Major
Nov 6, 2016
1,541
Boston
Not sure if you know "Torgus" on this forum but give him a shout and he can give you some feedback on this setup.
I am quite the fan of the Ohlins set up and every other suspension component I received and installed from @[email protected].

My review: https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/3dm-motorsports-ohlins-suspension-review.5817/

Barry will not steer your wrong in my experience. I would recommend the swift spring upgrade and correctly re-valving the struts for the more aggressive springs. The springs which Ohlins supplied on their standard E9X are not correct for a n54 power car in my opinion. IIRC they were also designed for the NA N52 motor as well.
 
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derekgates

Sergeant
Feb 23, 2018
274
NW FL
I am quite the fan of the Ohlins set up and every other suspension component I received and installed from @[email protected].

My review: https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/3dm-motorsports-ohlins-suspension-review.5817/

Barry will not steer your wrong in my experience. I would recommend the swift spring upgrade and correctly re-valving the struts for the more aggressive springs. The springs which Ohlins supplied on their standard E9X are not correct for a n54 power car in my opinion. IIRC they were also designed for the NA N52 motor as well.

ah, so I've heard. Well I haven't been happy... and I know I've changed quite a bit but I don't think I went too far down the deep end with uneven characteristics of parts? Must be springs and/or valving needing to be done.

I can yank those Ohlins off pretty damn quick. What is your turn around time @[email protected] ? Swift upgrades and revalving sounds good. I think I ordered thrust sheets at some point but hell if I can find things in my garage/life. :D
 

fmorelli

Brigadier General
Staff member
Aug 11, 2017
2,659
Virginia
I need to get through this ordeal with the M3 rear end (driveshaaaaft) before I can jump on this, but these recommendations are sounding fantastic to me. @fmorelli praises your abilities and skills and I would love a 'piece of that'. :D
If it was me, and my car was apart, I'd probably send the Öhlins in to @[email protected] and have them gone through. But before that, I'd get on the phone with him and discuss your suspension with him and see what he recommends based on where you are at. Barry knows his stuff, has done a fair bit of work on setting up these cars, especially the new rear suspension that was a major design change for BMW traditional rear suspensions - few people have expertise with it, much less with that suspension pushing 2-3x the power through that any traditional suspension would. Honestly the fairly stock cars are block and tackle for him now. Should see what he's doing with the upcoming Öhlins TTX setups for BMW's in the USA :). I haven't fired up a thread yet because we are knee deep, but I hope to soon, with some of the development on the Z4.

Filippo

p.s. Someone should ask Barry to post some photos about the track E90 he's building, in between Öhlins development cycles 🙃

1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg
 
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[email protected]

Corporal
Platinum Vendor
Jun 4, 2018
146
ah, so I've heard. Well I haven't been happy... and I know I've changed quite a bit but I don't think I went too far down the deep end with uneven characteristics of parts? Must be springs and/or valving needing to be done.

I can yank those Ohlins off pretty damn quick. What is your turn around time @[email protected] ? Swift upgrades and revalving sounds good. I think I ordered thrust sheets at some point but hell if I can find things in my garage/life. :D
Turn around time for a re-valve is 1-3 days. I just got re-stocked with repair kits as well so if there is an issue with anything I can take care of it on the spot. I would recommend sending the complete front assembly (shock, spring, camber plates) and I can put it together with the new spring so its ready to bolt up to your car so you don't have to fuss with anything. The only thing you will have to do is reset your rear spring perches, or you can send those to me as well and I can pre-set them, up to you.

At 30k miles you aren't due for a rebuild for another 20k miles but... if you are going through all this it might be worth me rebuilding them at the same time. When rebuilding, I do not charge for a re-valve because it is already apart. So basically you pay for a rebuild... you get the re-valve free.

Hope this helps and let me know if you have any other questions!

Barry
 

derekgates

Sergeant
Feb 23, 2018
274
NW FL
Turn around time for a re-valve is 1-3 days. I just got re-stocked with repair kits as well so if there is an issue with anything I can take care of it on the spot. I would recommend sending the complete front assembly (shock, spring, camber plates) and I can put it together with the new spring so its ready to bolt up to your car so you don't have to fuss with anything. The only thing you will have to do is reset your rear spring perches, or you can send those to me as well and I can pre-set them, up to you.

At 30k miles you aren't due for a rebuild for another 20k miles but... if you are going through all this it might be worth me rebuilding them at the same time. When rebuilding, I do not charge for a re-valve because it is already apart. So basically you pay for a rebuild... you get the re-valve free.

Hope this helps and let me know if you have any other questions!

Barry
Awesome.

I ordered more jack stands/adapters which will arrive this week. I can then get the front end off of the ramps and remove suspension. I like the idea of sending the entire assemblies, and would like to have the camber plates inspected for any slop in the sphericals as well as I know the Vorshlag have big issues with debris ruining the plates (do you recommend other plates?).

Thank you for the replies, I will be working towards this.
 
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