Servotronic on a 335i

[dzid_]

Can someone post a link to this thread and actually I think maybe I need to code the DsC module settings from M3.

Yeah. I don't think the steering wheel angle calibration matters. It's going to be the same on the CAN regardless of the rack ratio.
It is how it's interpreted by DCS and FRM that matters.

I can see in NCS Dummy, that FRM has the setting for that:
LENK_UEBERSETZUNG - STEERING RATIO. I still have stock setting.

All these option are set to 16, so a custom field needs to be created and set to 12.5. Times 5 and in hex is 3F.

Btw, there are some other cool settings for headlight. E.g. MAX_SW_SCHWENK_W_AUSSEN - HEADLIGHTS MAXIMUM SWIVELLING ANGLE TO OUTSIDE [ANGLE_°=DATA/10] Max is 15deg, but could be increased to 25deg with custom data. I looked inside the headlight housing and I think they can rotate much more than 15deg.

For the blinkers there seems to be a separate setting. LENKWINKEL_UEBERSCHREITEN
Even stock I thought they turn off too late, so I want to play with that.

I reduced off-angle threshold LENKWINKEL_UEBERSCHREITEN from 30.1deg to 23.8deg and I think LENKWINKEL_UNTERSCHREITEN needs to be less than that.

The cornering light threshold can also be adjusted. ABBL_LZ_STAND

For DSC, it's not as straightforward it seems. M1 has different DSC firmware, based on what I see in NCS Dummy. MK60_M82.C01
For my firmware (MK60_87.C0F), there is:
C0F_LENKWINKELKENNLINIE - STEERING ANGLE CHARACTERISTIC CURVE but it only can be changed between non-M cars. It's more of Active Steering, I think.
There are other thresholds though, that you could adust for oversteer and understeer, but it's not clear how this works. Also there is yaw moment compensation in mm. I have no idea what it is.

Anyway, I have not noticed any difference in traction control operation. Though in theory, I would expect understeer to be detected later and oversteer earlier. But it's not like these things were precise in the first place

 

[Neg89]

All these option are set to 16, so a custom field needs to be created and set to 12.5. Times 5 and in hex is 3F.

Thank you very much that's a lot of very useful information can you please tell me about this custom field because I usually use protool and I'm not familiar what that means and how to do that.

 

[dzid_]

All these option are set to 16, so a custom field needs to be created and set to 12.5. Times 5 and in hex is 3F.

Thank you very much that's a lot of very useful information can you please tell me about this custom field because I usually use protool and I'm not familiar what that means and how to do that.

You just right click on the field in NCS_Dummy and add custom nettodata field. Then you generate nettodata.man instead of usual fsw_psw.man. Then in ncs_expert you need to change job type to NETTODATEN_CODIEREN. That's more or less the way. Here is full instruction: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/...NCS-Dummy-Taking-the-expert-out-of-NCS-Expert

 

[aus335iguy]

Thanks that’s awesome information @dzid_ !!!
FYI The coding of an M DSC in non M cars is discussed in depth here btw

M-Drive and MDM in non M cars

HI All This thread is as per the title M drive and MDM in non M cars and is a natural progression of what was being discussed in this thread here . In short M(2,3) and 1M modules have specific programming and features and as such the functionality they bring is highly desirable in non M cars...

www.spoolstreet.com

 

[Gachot]

This is what I'm looking at right now and thinking something else. What if...
To code DSC to 1M there are some things that need changing. One of them is to change the VO of the car to 1M so the proper software and reset can be done after changing the firmware in DSC. So what if I reset the FRM to 1M settings? That should automatically change the steering angle to proper 12.5 and maybe done some other things. Also, after DSC firmware change new calibration needs to be done, so maybe after that everything should work properly. For 1 series cars and 1M DSC setting, the DCT button should work properly on CAN as it is connected now. It doesn't go directly to the DSC unit as in M3. Only MDM one press DCT is what I'm looking for. M button on the steering wheel is unimportant as it only changes throttle response which is again insignificant as I have a custom tune and don't care for that.

But I have never done firmware changes so I'm a bit insecure. It's not a problem if I brick the DSC unit, I have another one, but I don't want to make my car unusable for a longer period Calibrating steering is something I've done.

Instructions from the top regarding coding are clear, but I'm not sure only FRM holds data and I'm not sure that in DSC unit when coded with standard software it's even possible to change angles. I have even brakes and suspension from 1M, so I really want to change DSC software to 1M.
I'm reading at the moment all possible posts to maybe understand everything and get it right. The problem is that most posts are combined with M3 and 1M codings and M mode for M3 and I don't need most of it. I just need 1M DSC coding.
If I succeed I will try to make some clear instructions if the DSC will work properly.

Coding M modules in a non M car

Hi All There are a number of you who are trying to access m3 and 1m modules in BMW standard tools and thats an issue as they aren't showing up from this thread here https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/discussion-about-issues-encountered-whilst-converting-to-m3-flash-and-gws.3011/page-12 Ok...

www.spoolstreet.com

Discussion about issues encountered whilst converting to M3 Flash and GWS

If you could explain what you mean here this is my last hurdle. What do you mean add *PM92? That's not a VO option and I'm confused by that. I've gotten everything else other than the coding on this DSC to work. Ok mate, got your vin. So exactly like this. 1. Load ncs and in your vehicle...

www.spoolstreet.com

These are just some of the discussions.

 

[dzid_]

This is what I'm looking at right now and thinking something else. What if...
To code DSC to 1M there are some things that need changing. One of them is to change the VO of the car to 1M so the proper software and reset can be done after changing the firmware in DSC. So what if I reset the FRM to 1M settings? That should automatically change the steering angle to proper 12.5 and maybe done some other things. Also, after DSC firmware change new calibration needs to be done, so maybe after that everything should work properly. For 1 series cars and 1M DSC setting, the DCT button should work properly on CAN as it is connected now. It doesn't go directly to the DSC unit as in M3. Only MDM one press DCT is what I'm looking for. M button on the steering wheel is unimportant as it only changes throttle response which is again insignificant as I have a custom tune and don't care for that.

But I have never done firmware changes so I'm a bit insecure. It's not a problem if I brick the DSC unit, I have another one, but I don't want to make my car unusable for a longer period Calibrating steering is something I've done.

Instructions from the top regarding coding are clear, but I'm not sure only FRM holds data and I'm not sure that in DSC unit when coded with standard software it's even possible to change angles. I have even brakes and suspension from 1M, so I really want to change DSC software to 1M.
I'm reading at the moment all possible posts to maybe understand everything and get it right. The problem is that most posts are combined with M3 and 1M codings and M mode for M3 and I don't need most of it. I just need 1M DSC coding.
If I succeed I will try to make some clear instructions if the DSC will work properly.

Coding M modules in a non M car

Hi All There are a number of you who are trying to access m3 and 1m modules in BMW standard tools and thats an issue as they aren't showing up from this thread here https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/discussion-about-issues-encountered-whilst-converting-to-m3-flash-and-gws.3011/page-12 Ok...

www.spoolstreet.com

Discussion about issues encountered whilst converting to M3 Flash and GWS

If you could explain what you mean here this is my last hurdle. What do you mean add *PM92? That's not a VO option and I'm confused by that. I've gotten everything else other than the coding on this DSC to work. Ok mate, got your vin. So exactly like this. 1. Load ncs and in your vehicle...

www.spoolstreet.com

These are just some of the discussions.

I too only want 1M DSC firmware (with MDM button function). The stock firmware is super annoying for me. I just hope it will be accepted on 2011 N55 with DCT trans (which BTW has a Sport button that changes throttle response, but only when DTC is not pressed)

I somehow doubt that when you change VO, it will automatically change the steering ratio in FRM. Usually changing VO just selects a different option from the available options on a given firmware. But setting FRM manually is an easy part, so I wouldn't worry about that.

I think you can still drive with a bricked DSC, but I don't think you will brick it. Would be nice if you document your observations.

 

[Bnks334]

I have an 07 335i E92 I am working on. Passenger hi/low beam is not working but the headlight works fine when plugged into the drivers side. Wiring harness looks fine, physically. I want to try to replace the FRM module with the one I have left over from my 11 135i in the hope that maybe the FRM is the issue. Is the following step only required for Servotronic? Or, do you have to carry wires from the OBD port to the FRM for all FRM upgrades? I see Footwell module 3 was used "from 03/2007." I will have to check the vin but I would think a late 2006 or early 2007 build date would have at least Footwell module 2? These are a lot of extra steps I would hope to avoid as I am getting tired of working on this pile of ishhhh

I see ping 5 is ground and pin 6 is CAN (J-2234)?

NOTE: If you have a pre 2008 car, you will need to bring two wires from the obd2 port into x14271. Pin 6 on obd2 to pin 17 in x14271 and Pin 14 on obd2 to pin 33 in x14271.

You will then need to change the production date on your car by going into the VO page on NCSExpert, removing your #MM/YY and adding any date past 2008. For example #0310

P.S. There was a single post on a different forum on a JBBF 2 possibly having the provisions for servotronic. It has been (to my knowledge) untested so I will always and only recommend the two part numbers listed above.

 

[aus335iguy]

Once you change your VO you default code the FRM and this should give you the features. The exception is when your frm doesn’t have the correct firmware. You may need to flash newer different firmware. You may need a m SZL as some non m ones don’t work and there doesn’t seem to be a known SZL number outside the m ones
Once that’s all done You can then do the SZL steering angle initialisation

 

[aus335iguy]

PS To my knowledge…No one has achieved MDM in a non M car. The only way to do that is to use an arduino and a sketch as far as I know.

 

[dzid_]

PS To my knowledge…No one has achieved MDM in a non M car. The only way to do that is to use an arduino and a sketch as far as I know.

You right. Now I remember. Good reminder.
I will try to drill this over therehttps://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/coding-m-modules-in-a-non-m-car.6190/page-22#post-114956 to not diverge servotronic thread...
Because to me, it is not even clear whether "arduino" would help or does it need to be rewired or some other trick.

 

[dzid_]

I finally replaced the JBBF module. Initially I thought there is no way I can remove the two torx screws (T15, same as the trim) holding the module. But the ratchet with an extension (or just not fully inserted socket) is all you need.

The assist is amazing. The most comfortable BMW I ever had.


Attaching photos of the internals of 9247467 (L1 type) vs 9267209 (M. type). M has more stuff. You can see small white cube responsible for Servotronic PWM and two more, larger ones (I don't know what for).




BTW, I adjusted blinkers release angles in FRM. I am happy with following setting with M rack:
LENKWINKEL_UEBERSCHREITEN = 0x44 = 23.8° ("latch" angle)
LENKWINKEL_UNTERSCHREITEN = 0x40 = 22.4° (release angle)

 

[aus335iguy]

I hadn’t thought of the blinker release issue thanks man

 

[rbryant]

I did a bunch of research and comparisons of various cheap power steering pumps to see if I can create the 1M pump from a combo of existing pumps and it appears that I can....

There are essentially 2 different power steering pumps that came on the non 1M cars.

The LUK30 and the active steering ZF pump. These are easily identifiable both from the back side and the front where the ZF has an extra round part on the casting.

ZF pumps come in two different nose lengths, a short nose version, and a long nose where the short is 1/2" shorter than the long.
They then also come with the valve on either side in a mirror image. We use what I would call a left side outlet on the 335i and 135i.
BMW appears to have put a round pulley connection on the long nose pumps and a triangular one on the short ones so it is easy to see which is which...
Bolt spacing and center hub are the same size so pulleys will bolt on but the spacing is off.

The 1M pump is a left handed outlet (looking from the back side to the front like it is a car) with a long nose. (I am making up the left vs right, if there is a standard way I can change the terminology later). Sadly most ZF commonly available cheap low mileage used pumps I see are on the wrong side for what we need.

• 135/335 pumps
  • The non active steering 135i/335i uses a left handed Luk 30
  • The 1M uses a long nose left handed ZF pump.
• Other Car pumps
  • The M3 uses a short nose right handed ZF pump.
    • This also appears to be the same basic pump as the 335d but with different brackets and suction pump orientation (PN: 32416794921).
    • The e60 525 pump: 32416766190 also seems the same with different brackets and suction tube (and could be a good cheap source of the pressure valve with banjo connections)
    • Lots of other also use this pump but with different pressures and often oring style connections, e53 X5 3.0l is one example.
  • The e60/e65/e66 V8's use a left handed short nose pump (PN: 32416763687) (without active or dynamic steering)
  • The e53 X5 V8s appear to have a similar ZF pump that is 130bar with an oring valve that is lower pressure and the suction tube rotated.
    • This is actually not a big deal, they can be carefully wiggled out (being careful not to gull the housing), they are not a true press fit and have an oring on the tube so you can pull it off and put it in the position you need.
  • 2003-2009 Range Rovers with a 4.4l V8 (Interchange PN: 553-59000) also use a pump similar to the e53 x5 V8 and are 132bar (but have a better orientation of the suction inlet). <Subtle Jab here> Range rover pumps might also not be very high mileage....
    • The V8 pumps also had an oring style power steering line connection instead of a banjo crush washer and the so they would need the banjo style valve and a spacer to work (more on that later)
    • I need to verify if the M3 valve can be swapped into the X5 and RR pumps. I expect that they are 132/130bar due to the valve and not the machining or capacity of the pump.

Finally I did find a a ZF clone pump that was made in china that is long nose and left outlet. It is just like the 1M pump externally with the exception that it uses the smaller sized suction hose connection. (making it even more bolt on for most of us that don't have active steering anyway and are converting from a Luk30). The valve is not an exact copy of the BMW valve so I have no way to know for sure that it has a 135bar bypass or how it will flow without actually trying it. Most suppliers use the short housing and extended shaft. My guess is that they do this to make it more of a bolt on for the Luk30 which has longer pulley bolts that hit the housing on the long nose ZF pump...

The converted OEM active pump is on the car now but here are some pictures of the other pumps:

Left to right..

08-10 e60 550i non active non dynamic PN: 32416763687
e90 M3
ZF FP6 clone
335i Luk30

As mentioned earlier the active steering ZF (FP6) pump that appears to be from the same casting as the 1M with a different machining done to add the active steering valve/solenoid. It also uses exactly the same Suction hose as the 1M pump which allows for a direct fit of the upgraded active steering reservoir that is reportedly less prone to spewing fluid all over the engine bay.

1. Fortunately they made the secondary feed hole to the active valve a nice 4.88mm round 5mm deep hole.
   • This means that we can press in a 5mm pin with a ~4.5 thou press/hammer fit which can seal it (loctite 648 should be used with that press fit but I realized this after I had already done mine).
   • These are normally sealed with a similar pin from ZF after they are machined for the left/right side from the factory.
     • I ended up driving it in with a hammer, and a nailset, it went in very reasonably with a tapered pin and the already tapered hole.
     • I did purposefully dent the top side to hold the pin in just for safe measure (given that ZF does this)
   • 
2. To convert the valve, the active ZF pump also needs to have a 1/8" hole drilled into the valve body to act like the M3 pump.
   • This was an easy task with a hand drill just watch out for aluminum shavings and blow out with compressed air.
   • 
3. The active pump valve connection is 1.5mm shorter relative to the M3 pump.
   • This is also lucky because the coated aluminum valve gasket for the active solenoid is just that thickness....
   • I have installed the M3 valve (without the sealing oring) and tightened it against the gasket from the active valve.
   • This should make a perfectly good seal and give the right height for the valve. I should have used a 7mm long pin to stop the gasket from spinning but that is a minor issue and I was able to start with it offset to get it to align.
   • This should seal with no issues but care should be taken if loosening the banjo bolt connection to not loosen this seal.

I am still working on buttoning things up but plan to fire it up and look for leaks in the next week....


Finally one last bit of surprising news...
The brackets for the Luk30 and the ZF are the same... We can actually take the Luk30 mounting brackets off and attach them to a ZF pump.
The ZF pump does need 7mm shorter pulley bolts to not hit the housing.

Backup plans if my active steering pump conversion fails:

1. Try the Chinese ZF clone pump (this will bolt on and just need a a hose size adapter for the feed line compared to the active pump
2. Machine a spacer for the short nose ZF pumps... I have one in hand and it can directly use the M3/335d valve. (this also has the smaller suction line)
   • While the spacer would put a little more strain on the bearings compared to the long nose pump the Luk30's pump shaft sticks out from the pump and effectively does the same thing so it is really a non issue.

If anyone is interested in a kit to convert a short nose pump with a spacer let me know. I may make a kit for that and swap one on my car for testing. It is a pretty straight forward thing to do and is probably the easiest way to emulate the 1M pump.

-Rich

 

[aus335iguy]

I did a bunch of research and comparisons of various cheap power steering pumps to see if I can create the 1M pump from a combo of existing pumps and it appears that I can....

There are essentially 2 different power steering pumps that came on the non 1M cars.

The LUK30 and the active steering ZF pump. These are easily identifiable both from the back side and the front where the ZF has an extra round part on the casting.

ZF pumps come in two different nose lengths, a short nose version, and a long nose where the short is 1/2" shorter than the long.
They then also come with the valve on either side in a mirror image. We use what I would call a left side outlet on the 335i and 135i.
BMW appears to have put a round pulley connection on the long nose pumps and a triangular one on the short ones so it is easy to see which is which...
Bolt spacing and center hub are the same size so pulleys will bolt on but the spacing is off.

The 1M pump is a left handed outlet (looking from the back side to the front like it is a car) with a long nose. (I am making up the left vs right, if there is a standard way I can change the terminology later). Sadly most ZF commonly available cheap low mileage used pumps I see are on the wrong side for what we need.

• 135/335 pumps
  • The non active steering 135i/335i uses a left handed Luk 30
  • The 1M uses a long nose left handed ZF pump.
• Other Car pumps
  • The M3 uses a short nose right handed ZF pump.
    • This also appears to be the same basic pump as the 335d but with different brackets and suction pump orientation (PN: 32416794921).
    • The e60 525 pump: 32416766190 also seems the same with different brackets and suction tube (and could be a good cheap source of the pressure valve with banjo connections)
    • Lots of other also use this pump but with different pressures and often oring style connections, e53 X5 3.0l is one example.
  • The e60/e65/e66 V8's use a left handed short nose pump (PN: 32416763687) (without active or dynamic steering)
    • They also had an oring style power steering line connection instead of a banjo crush washer and the so they would need the banjo style valve and a spacer to work (more on that later)
    • The e53 X5 V8s appear to have a similar ZF pump with an oring valve that is lower pressure and the suction tube rotated.
      • This is actually not a big deal, they can be carefully wiggled out (being careful not to gull the housing), they are not a true press fit and have an oring on the tube so you can pull it off and put it in the position you need.
      • I need to verify if the M3 valve can be swapped into this pump. I expect that they are 130bar due to the valve and not the machining of the pump.

Finally I did find a a ZF clone pump that was made in china that is long nose and left outlet. It is just like the 1M pump externally with the exception that it uses the smaller sized suction hose connection. (making it even more bolt on for most of us that don't have active steering anyway and are converting from a Luk30). The valve is not an exact copy of the BMW valve so I have no way to know for sure that it has a 135bar bypass or how it will flow without actually trying it. Most suppliers use the short housing and extended shaft. My guess is that they do this to make it more of a bolt on for the Luk30 which has longer pulley bolts that hit the housing on the long nose ZF pump...

The converted OEM active pump is on the car now but here are some pictures of the other pumps:

Left to right..

08-10 e60 550i non active non dynamic PN: 32416763687
e90 M3
ZF FP6 clone
335i Luk30

View attachment 62657


As mentioned earlier the active steering ZF (FP6) pump that appears to be from the same casting as the 1M with a different machining done to add the active steering valve/solenoid. It also uses exactly the same Suction hose as the 1M pump which allows for a direct fit of the upgraded active steering reservoir that is reportedly less prone to spewing fluid all over the engine bay.

1. Fortunately they made the secondary feed hole to the active valve a nice 4.88mm round 5mm deep hole.
   • This means that we can press in a 5mm pin with a ~4.5 thou press/hammer fit which can seal it (loctite 648 should be used with that press fit but I realized this after I had already done mine).
   • These are normally sealed with a similar pin from ZF after they are machined for the left/right side from the factory.
     • I ended up driving it in with a hammer, and a nailset, it went in very reasonably with a tapered pin and the already tapered hole.
     • I did purposefully dent the top side to hold the pin in just for safe measure (given that ZF does this)
   • View attachment 62662
2. To convert the valve, the active ZF pump also needs to have a 1/8" hole drilled into the valve body to act like the M3 pump.
   • This was an easy task with a hand drill just watch out for aluminum shavings and blow out with compressed air.
   • View attachment 62661
3. The active pump valve connection is 1.5mm shorter relative to the M3 pump.
   • This is also lucky because the coated aluminum valve gasket for the active solenoid is just that thickness....
   • I have installed the M3 valve (without the sealing oring) and tightened it against the gasket from the active valve.
   • This should make a perfectly good seal and give the right height for the valve. I should have used a 7mm long pin to stop the gasket from spinning but that is a minor issue and I was able to start with it offset to get it to align.
   • This should seal with no issues but care should be taken if loosening the banjo bolt connection to not loosen this seal.

I am still working on buttoning things up but plan to fire it up and look for leaks in the next week....


Finally one last bit of surprising news...
The brackets for the Luk30 and the ZF are the same... We can actually take the Luk30 mounting brackets off and attach them to a ZF pump.
The ZF pump does need 7mm shorter pulley bolts to not hit the housing.

Backup plans if my active steering pump conversion fails:

1. Try the Chinese ZF clone pump (this will bolt on and just need a a hose size adapter for the feed line compared to the active pump
2. Machine a spacer for the short nose ZF pumps... I have one in hand and it can directly use the M3/335d valve. (this also has the smaller suction line)
   • While the spacer would put a little more strain on the bearings compared to the long nose pump the Luk30's pump shaft sticks out from the pump and effectively does the same thing so it is really a non issue.

If anyone is interested in a kit to convert a short nose pump with a spacer let me know. I may make a kit for that and swap one on my car for testing. It is a pretty straight forward thing to do and is probably the easiest way to emulate the 1M pump.

-Rich

That’s awesome info mate thanks for sharing

 

[rbryant]

That’s awesome info mate thanks for sharing

It is overkill but creating a pump with the same valve and capacity as the 1M pump is clearly possible.

I will buy a cheap used X5 pump when I get a chance. I also did confirm that you can remove the suction port barb from the Luk30 and put it on the ZF pumps.

So with a valve from a M3, 335d, or e60 525 pump (PN: 32416766190) and a custom aluminum spacer the readily available e53 V8 pump should be all we need.

A used valve is no problem, It isn't a wear item and can be found for $60 or less on a PS pump from ebay.. So for $120 plus the spacer setup and swapping of the suction barb from the Luk30 one could have the functional equivalent of a used 1M pump.

e53 V8, Range Rover V8, and e60 pumps can also purchased new for $250 and rebuilt for under ~$150. Strangely Cordone and BBB have a rebuild service for pumps (via Rockauto) that is very different depending on which pump (even though the rebuild is the same). If I had a 1M pump for rebuild I would be inclined to send it in for rebuild as if it were from a different car (the price is no different for the rebuilder).

-Rich

 

[aus335iguy]

It is overkill but creating a pump with the same valve and capacity as the 1M pump is clearly possible.

I will buy a cheap used X5 pump when I get a chance. I also did confirm that you can remove the suction port barb from the Luk30 and put it on the ZF pumps.

So with a valve from a M3, 335d, or e60 525 pump (PN: 32416766190) and a custom aluminum spacer the readily available e53 V8 pump should be all we need.

A used valve is no problem, It isn't a wear item and can be found for $60 or less on a PS pump from ebay.. So for $120 plus the spacer setup and swapping of the suction barb from the Luk30 one could have the functional equivalent of a used 1M pump.

e53 V8, Range Rover V8, and e60 pumps can also purchased new for $250 and rebuilt for under ~$150. Strangely Cordone and BBB have a rebuild service for pumps (via Rockauto) that is very different depending on which pump (even though the rebuild is the same). If I had a 1M pump for rebuild I would be inclined to send it in for rebuild as if it were from a different car (the price is no different for the rebuilder).

-Rich

Be good to ask them to show what the differences between the pumps are

 

[rbryant]

Would people be interested in a group buy if I did a custom spec ZF clone pump to match the 1M with a quality Chinese supplier?

I am not sure of costs but it would be under $150 shipped and hopefully closer to $100 and would have a 1 year warranty. I am talking to a supplier who seems responsive and knowledgeable. The goal is to spend a few extra dollars on these customized pumps to make them the top quality possible. Chinese suppliers will make high quality parts in my experience but it has to be clear that we will pay more for them rather than trying to squeeze out every last dollar.

I could start a group buy if there is enough interest.

Or would people be more interested in a spacer to make a short OEM pump with swapped valve work? I could make either or none depending on inerest.

-Rich

 

[GnomeChild]

Post to end all servotronic retrofit questions:

Requirements:

1. Apprentice level knowledge with NCSExpert. I am assuming that you already know how to manipulate your cars vehicle order and production date if you have <07/2008 build. Obviously you'll be writing your new production date and/or VO to your CAS module by selecting FA_Write
2. JBBF 3 M stamp / part numbers: 9329800 OR 9364819
   1. From E93/E84/E89 doesn't matter. Pinouts seem to be exactly the same between the three chassis'
3. Wire servotronic pwm (black/brown to pin 5, black/white to pin 6) to the plug in the back (x14270)
4. Add $216 to your vehicle order (VO) and default code your new "2JBBF" module and KOMBI module (default coding will overwrite any custom coding)
5. Enjoy your super quick and agile steering rack.

Bonus: rear sunshade retrofit (E90 and E92 only)

1. Install rear deck sunshade and bring both wires up to x14270 which is the same plug you used for the servotronic
2. Install new center console switch panel with the sunshade button
3. Wire motor into the JBBF (Yellow to pin 3 and White to pin 30 on x14270)
4. Add $415 to your vehicle order and default code JBBF
5. Enjoy your new rear sunshade

I will update this post once I figure out if NETTODAT coding the servotronic values works.

NOTE: If you have a pre 2008 car, you will need to bring two wires from the obd2 port into x14271. Pin 6 on obd2 to pin 17 in x14271 and Pin 14 on obd2 to pin 33 in x14271.

You will then need to change the production date on your car by going into the VO page on NCSExpert, removing your #MM/YY and adding any date past 2008. For example #0310

P.S. There was a single post on a different forum on a JBBF 2 possibly having the provisions for servotronic. It has been (to my knowledge) untested so I will always and only recommend the two part numbers listed above.

The best post in this thread

Ah ok, because it loops back!! :
View attachment 53026


Ok, so to summarize all the parts, one needs:
- servotronic cable 61129115546
- 2x pins 12527522388
- or 2x pigtails 61130005199

Rack:
- 4x banjo crush washers 07119906464 (14x20)

Additionally if one wants to use the holder:
- 61136919422
- 07119904182
- 07129904150
- second 61129115546

And the JBBFE 3 for those who dont have it:

Servotronic on a 335i

Yeah I re-read post #64 in that thread and I think you might be right... there does seem to be physical variations to the JBBF units between say an "L1" and an "M" variant. I was skeptical since all JBBF 3 have the same part number... and it shows interchangeable between 135i and 1M. However...

www.spoolstreet.com

The second best post in this thread lol

So my stock 335i steering rack blew over the weekend and instead of paying nearly $1k and waiting a week for a reman'd 335i rack, I sourced a low milage M3 rack from a local European recycler for $550 (plus some servotronic wiring). Did the swap, which took about 12 hours, yesterday and the results are more than I expected. Major upgrade over stock, have an appointment for alignment on Monday. Definitely need to add the servotronic because lowspeed steering is stiff as fuck but highspeed is lightning quick; you sneeze and you're in a different lane.

Thanks to everyone that worked out all the kinks for this retrofit; will all come in handy when the rest of my parts arrive

 

[ornicar]

Would people be interested in a group buy if I did a custom spec ZF clone pump to match the 1M with a quality Chinese supplier?

I am not sure of costs but it would be under $150 shipped and hopefully closer to $100 and would have a 1 year warranty. I am talking to a supplier who seems responsive and knowledgeable. The goal is to spend a few extra dollars on these customized pumps to make them the top quality possible. Chinese suppliers will make high quality parts in my experience but it has to be clear that we will pay more for them rather than trying to squeeze out every last dollar.

I could start a group buy if there is enough interest.

Or would people be more interested in a spacer to make a short OEM pump with swapped valve work? I could make either or none depending on inerest.

-Rich

maybe you have ever seen it but i find this document very interresting.

https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data%20Sheet_68824075_Power_Steering_Pump_VPS15.pdf

https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Operation%20Manual_145798667_Power_Steering_Pump_VPS15.pdf

It is possible to buy some valve screw

Valve Screw Spare Parts​

Order number: F02U.B0U.025-01

 

[dzid_]

I had a look into Servotronic maps on JBBF.

I thought I would use maps from M3 DME that unlike default maps in JBBF differentiate between Sport and Comfort.

servotronic settings from m3 dme bin
View attachment 48745

980mA limit before it throws an error

Though someone mentioned before, the JBBF Sport map is not activated with Sport button on 135i... That is true. Only Comfort values are used with 135i DME.

In any case, M3 calls give a bit more support at the lower speed and are stiffer at highway speeds. And when slowing down to stop you feel more the assist increases rapidly.

Here is a script I used to interpolate M3 values onto 135i breakpoints. (It assumes JBBF values are 1/4 of mA from M3)

#
#%% import
import numpy as np
import matplotlib.pyplot as plt

#%% Data
#   135i both sport and normal - hex
#   0   5   0F  1E  28  32  41  50  5A  64  6E  82  96  B4  C8  FA
#   C8  91  87  7D  7A  77  6F  6C  64  5C  55  4B  35  1D  3   0

servotronic_135_v = np.array([0,5,15,30,40,50,65,80,90,100,110,130,150,180,200,250]) #kph
servotronic_135_i = np.array([200,145,135,125,122,119,111,108,100,92,85,75,53,29,3,0]) #mA /4
servotronic_M3_comfort_v = np.array([0,5,15,30,45,60,80,100,120,200]) #kph
servotronic_M3_comfort_i = np.array([801,786,582,474,441,423,383,318,67,0]) #mA
servotronic_M3_sport_v = np.array([0,3,15,30,45,60,80,100,120,200]) #kph
servotronic_M3_sport_i = np.array([801,788,527,433,384,360,284,162,3,0]) #mA

#%%  conversions
servotronic_M3_comfort_to_135_bp_v = servotronic_135_v
servotronic_M3_comfort_to_135_bp_i = (1/4*np.interp(servotronic_M3_comfort_to_135_bp_v, servotronic_M3_comfort_v, servotronic_M3_comfort_i)).astype(int)
# servotronic_M3_comfort_to_135_bp_i[0] = 980/4-1 #max out mA at 0 speed

servotronic_M3_sport_to_135_bp_v = servotronic_135_v
# servotronic_M3_sport_to_135_bp_v[1] = 3 #replace second breakpoint to match M3 sport second breakpoint. Doesn't make much difference
servotronic_M3_sport_to_135_bp_i = np.round(1/4*np.interp(servotronic_M3_sport_to_135_bp_v, servotronic_M3_sport_v, servotronic_M3_sport_i)).astype(int)
# servotronic_M3_sport_to_135_bp_i[0] = 980/4-1 #max out mA at 0 speed
print(servotronic_M3_comfort_to_135_bp_i)
print(servotronic_M3_sport_to_135_bp_i)

#%% plot
plt.plot(servotronic_135_v, servotronic_135_i, "--", label='135i')
plt.plot(servotronic_M3_comfort_to_135_bp_v, servotronic_M3_comfort_to_135_bp_i, "-", label='M3 comfort with 135i breakpoints')
plt.plot(servotronic_M3_sport_to_135_bp_v, servotronic_M3_sport_to_135_bp_i, "-", label='M3 sport with 135i breakpoints')

plt.legend()
print('COMFORT_STROM')
for cell in servotronic_M3_comfort_to_135_bp_i:
    print(f'{cell:02x}', end=",")
print('\nSPORT_STROM')
for cell in servotronic_M3_sport_to_135_bp_i:
    print(f'{cell:02x}', end=",")
# %%

If someone doesn't care about the above, here are converted M3 calibrations that can be put into jbbf COMFORT_STROM custom coding:
M3 Comfort: c8,c4,91,76,71,6c,67,5f,57,4f,30,0e,0a,04,00,00,
M3 Sport: c8,ba,84,6c,64,5e,55,47,38,28,15,01,00,00,00,00,

Personally, I used M3 Comfort and I also lifted the first point to a maximum of 980mA (0xf4) (mentioned by @AzNdevil) for steering to be even easier when parking. I am not sure if I feel a difference from that max current though.