What code reader should I buy?

[DCTFox]

Hi guys, been lurking this forum for a while now but didn’t seem appropriate to join up while I was driving a 320d.

Just picked up my 335i two days ago and did a quick pull on the way home from work today, 2nd gear from around 30mph.

Got to around 60mph and boom, car goes into limp mode. First thought was charge pipe blew off so drove home and checked under the bonnet but charge pipe appears to be intact so I need a code reader to try and figure out what’s wrong with it.

Had a quick search on the forum but didn’t seem to be many threads on the topic, so any suggestions? I am in the UK.

Side note, anyone know what normal oil temps should be? Cruising along the highway it sits at around 100C (212F) but shot up to 120C (248F) during the short-lived pull.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[SJ_1989]

I would download MHD and purchase the Monitor license and take a datalog and read the codes. MHD will come in quite handy for you.

1. Read the codes
2. Reset the codes
3. Start a datalog and try to get the car to go into limp mode again
4. Post the log here

 

[Torgus]

Get MHD. You need it to load tunes anyways and it will read your codes.

Also read this: https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/diagnostic-scanners.5199/#post-76614

Personally I would return the car and tell them to fix it as you just bought it. ANY car should be able to go WOT through every gear without throwing a code when purchased from a dealership. It couldn't even accelerate 30mph without a CEL.

Oil you want right around 200 ideally, you probably don't have an oil cooler hence it shot up so fast.

 

[DCTFox]

Thanks for the replies guys!

I hadn’t thought of MHD surprisingly even though I had already planned to get it at some point.

Any suggestions for cheap Android devices that work well with MHD would be appreciated as I have an iPhone.

I will definitely be contacting the dealer to let them know what’s up and see what they want to do about it but this had reminded me that I want to be able to read codes and diagnose problems going forward.

Thanks again guys : )

 

[Torgus]

Thanks for the replies guys!

I hadn’t thought of MHD surprisingly even though I had already planned to get it at some point.

Any suggestions for cheap Android devices that work well with MHD would be appreciated as I have an iPhone.

I will definitely be contacting the dealer regarding the dealer to let them know what’s up and see what they want to do about it but this had reminded me that I want to be able to read codes and diagnose problems going forward.

Thanks again guys : )

I would demand the dealer fix and give you a loaner. I wouldn't even bother resetting the codes just read them so you know what went wrong.

Hopefully it's a 30FF for worn wastegates and you get new turbos. My buddy got all brand new index 12 injectors when he bought his years ago. I think Infiniti lost money on that deal as they had to send the car to BMW.

 

[SJ_1989]

Ditch the iphone. Android FTW

A lot of people use the Nexus 7 tablet I think.

 

[DCTFox]

I would demand the dealer fix and give you a loaner. I wouldn't even bother resetting the codes just read them so you know what went wrong.

Hopefully it's a 30FF for worn wastegates and you get new turbos. My buddy got all brand new index 12 injectors when he bought his years ago. I think Infiniti lost money on that deal as they had to send the car to BMW.

Now that would be nice lol. Only problem is the dealer is a 2 hour drive from me so logistics will be difficult but I will see what they say tomorrow.

Ditch the iphone. Android FTW

A lot of people use the Nexus 7 tablet I think.

I have actually been considering making the switch lately lol. Nexus 7 looks a solid choice, thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Torgus]

Now that would be nice lol. Only problem is the dealer is a 2 hour drive from me so logistics will be difficult but I will see what they say tomorrow.

I would be the asshole customer and say the car is broken and you refuse to drive it broken with a CEL light. You know it is a major problem as it has no acceleration worth talking about and you are concerned for your safety on the roads given the lack of acceleration. They should send a driver down with your loaner and their driver can take the risk of driving it back or they can set up a tow and still drop off a loaner.

and yes Android FTW. However google is becoming a worse company than apple imo. All their political bullshit and underhanded ways.

 

[DCTFox]

I would be the asshole customer and say the car is broken and you refuse to drive it broken with a CEL light. You know it is a major problem as it has no acceleration worth talking about and you are concerned for your safety on the roads given the lack of acceleration. They should send a driver down with your loaner and their driver can take the risk of driving it back or they can set up a tow and still drop off a loaner.

and yes Android FTW. However google is becoming a worse company than apple imo. All their political bullshit and underhanded ways.

Yeah I’ll definitely make it clear that I want them to fix it ASAP regardless of logistics and I don’t want to pay for it as I had only had the car for ~48 hours when the problem developed. It is also still under warranty so that should help.

 

[DCTFox]

The oil filter housing appears to be leaking as well so I’ll try and get them to sort that at the same time lol.

 

[DCTFox]

Quick update for anyone interested:

I’m now 95% certain the limp mode was due to the high oil temp, after reading last night that N54s not fitted with a factory oil cooler would drop into limp mode after spirited driving; I didn’t mention that I was in bumper to bumper traffic for about 20 minutes before the pull, in which time the oil temp went from 90C to 110C and then I started driving it fairly hard so it didn’t get a chance to cool down, then it hit around 120C and that’s when it dropped into limp mode. The fault was cleared when I started it up this morning and I drove it for 2 hours today without a problem, although I was in the same traffic again on the way home from work and once again the temp went from 90C to around 110C but I took it easy to let it cool back down again so no limp mode.

I spoke to the dealer when I got home, mentioned that it dropped into limp mode and the oil filter housing leak, said I wanted it rectified and asked how they wished to proceed.

They emailed me back instructing me to return the car to them within 3 days for a full refund. I told them I didn’t want a refund, that I wanted to keep the car and have them repair it but they are adamant that the only solution is that I return the car to them and paying for the repairs is not an option.

Now I’m in a tricky situation because I really want to keep the car. I love it and have been looking for one in this particular spec for a long time because DCT N54s are super rare in this country seeing as we didn’t get the 335is, and even rarer in the colour and specification I have. I had been checking online every day for the last 6 months+ and this was only the second one I saw for sale so I don’t rate my chances of finding another one any time soon.

Now my predicament is do I give the car back and wait another 6 months to join the N54 gang again or accept that the stealers are doing nothing and try to get it fixed by the warranty company?

Any thoughts and opinions are welcome and appreciated!

 

[SJ_1989]

I would just add an oil cooler if DCT's are that uncommon.

 

[DCTFox]

I would just add an oil cooler if DCT's are that uncommon.

I am leaning towards this because I really would rather not lose the car. Thanks mate.

 

[doublespaces]

I'm pretty sure the N54 had a DCT in some euro and asian countries starting in 2009. Can you take a picture of your engine bay? Only early model year 2007 came without an oil cooler I think. Also, when they say limp mode, there are multiple levels of power reduction that can happen at different temperatures, knowing exactly which code and the temps would be helpful.

 

[DCTFox]

I'm pretty sure the N54 had a DCT in some euro and asian countries starting in 2009. Can you take a picture of your engine bay? Only early model year 2007 came without an oil cooler I think. Also, when they say limp mode, there are multiple levels of power reduction that can happen at different temperatures, knowing exactly which code and the temps would be helpful.

You are correct. Mine is a 2009 model and I believe it does in fact have an oil cooler based on what I read earlier when I was looking at oil cooler upgrades, it seems there are two types of OFHs and mine is the type that indicates there is a cooler fitted. This gives me some hope that I might be able to get it replaced under warranty as opposed to getting something fitted that wasn’t already there from the factory.
I will get an android device some time on the next couple of weeks so I can use MHD to read codes.

 

[Torgus]

You are correct. Mine is a 2009 model and I believe it does in fact have an oil cooler based on what I read earlier when I was looking at oil cooler upgrades, it seems there are two types of OFHs and mine is the type that indicates there is a cooler fitted. This gives me some hope that I might be able to get it replaced under warranty as opposed to getting something fitted that wasn’t already there from the factory.
I will get an android device some time on the next couple of weeks so I can use MHD to read codes.

Yeah you have the factory OC if you are a 2009. I doubt it went into limp mode in all honesty.

For what it is worth the oil housing gasket job is VERY doable for small money. The gasket costs like $10 bucks and is a very common failure, it would of happened sooner or later. Remove you IM and walnut blast at the same time and add a 1/4 ID nipple in your IM for the BOV that is in your future. Just cap it for now. Block of the PCV ports in the head also while you have the IM off and install dual catch cans so your freshly cleaned valves stay cleaner longer. All good maintenance to do while you have to do that job. That is probably a full 8 hours on a Saturday for you if you do it all. Welcome to owning an N54.

3 days for a full refund is sketchy. I would check the laws in your state/country. Get the codes read ASAP. Literally make it fail again and get the codes read so you know what you are dealing with. Finding out you have a 30FF that will not go away and your wastegates are shot and you need new turbos right off the bat might not be fun to find out. That is worse case scenario basically.

Given how rare the DCT is and you don't mind spending some coin or sweat to fix er up, keep the car.

 

[DCTFox]

Yeah the OFHG is something I’m more than happy to do myself on a weekend it’s just that if I’m already having warranty work done I may as well save myself the hassle.

It is strange that the temp would get so high just from sitting in traffic given that I do in fact have an OC fitted so now I’m wondering if the fault came from something else.

Hopefully not turbos, I listened out for wastegate rattle before I bought the car and couldn’t hear a thing so thought they were okay but the problem is I’m flying blind until I can read the codes. Although you would think that if anything is covered by a warranty it would be the turbos lol.

Thanks for all the advice boys, it’s really helpful.

 

[aus335iguy]

Welcome to the N54 DCT club. I think that assuming it was an overtemp that caused the CEL might be premature. Ive never had one and i live in Australia where summers can be harsh. The temps you mention are normal for an n54 also. At 120c its limiting power but shouldn’t result in a CEL. I’d be trying to reproduce and get the code to verify what youre dealing with. If its more serious maybe you are better off looking for another.

 

[DCTFox]

Welcome to the N54 DCT club. I think that assuming it was an overtemp that caused the CEL might be premature. Ive never had one and i live in Australia where summers can be harsh. The temps you mention are normal for an n54 also. At 120c its limiting power but shouldn’t result in a CEL. I’d be trying to reproduce and get the code to verify what youre dealing with. If its more serious maybe you are better off looking for another.

Unfortunately it doesn’t matter anymore. I ended up deciding to keep the car but the dealer took it upon themselves to cancel my warranty and essentially force me into a position where I had no choice but to return it or pay for everything myself, so they are collecting the car from me this evening.
Guess I’m out of the club for the time being

 

[Torgus]

Unfortunately it doesn’t matter anymore. I ended up deciding to keep the car but the dealer took it upon themselves to cancel my warranty and essentially force me into a position where I had no choice but to return it or pay for everything myself, so they are collecting the car from me this evening.
Guess I’m out of the club for the time being

What assholes. I would keep an eye on the car and see if it goes right back for sale or if they actually fix it.

If they are being sketchy assholes maybe write a piece in your local newspaper about them or write some online reviews on social media etc.