Just because its not giving you problems doesnt mean its correct. Ive seen people work on motors and never use a torque wrench. Things may work, but once again, that doesnt mean its correct. Up to you.
N54: The best Plugs, Injectors and Coils Thread
- Thread starter doublespaces
- Start date
I know, just hate to pull all the shitty connectors back of 
. You only have to watch it, to let it break.
. You only have to watch it, to let it break.
I don't think that is correct. My understanding is that when 'colder' or 'hotter' is labelled, it simply means that the plug is designed in such a way that the transfer of heat from the combustion chamber is either quicker or slower into the engine head and taken away via coolant. The speed at which the combustion changer heat is transferred to the engine is manipulated via the length of the ceramic head which is what and/or the metal tip area. Typically, the more ceramic (longer) the more heat can be transferred, thus making the plug 'colder' than stock.
That's not the old one ? My new ones look like much higher resolution then my old.
Adding my post to this thread, so it doesn't get buried. Maybe @doublespaces can add it to the first post?
Original thread: https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/bosch-spark-plugs.5839/
They're definitely not the same. The 7 indicates the heat index, which is 1 step hotter(!) than the N54 OEM Bosch plugs (ZGR6STE2). NGK 95770 are about one step colder than OEM N54. You'll want some Bosch with an index of 5 for the same heat index as the NGK 95770 (ILZKBR7B8DG - NGK's heat index 7 equals Bosch's 5). For Bosch plugs the lower the number, the colder they are. NGK it's the opposite, the higher the number of their index, the colder the plugs.
Both ZMR5TPP330 (OEM S55 and M2 N55 - the M in the name indicates they are for M cars) and ZR5TPP33-S (OEM N55) are not produced anymore and superseded by ZR5TPP330 and ZR5TPP33 respectively. Production ceased 01/19 and only remaining stock is sold.
ZMR5TPP330 vs ZR5TPP330 = the center electrode's diameter is different -> 0.8 mm vs 0.6 mm
ZR5TPP33-S vs ZR5TPP33 = interference suppression resistor is different -> 8 kOhm vs. 6 kOhm
Other than that, the spark positions of all mentioned plugs are different!
Sorry if any termini aren't exactly right, I had to look up some words
Original thread: https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/bosch-spark-plugs.5839/
They're definitely not the same. The 7 indicates the heat index, which is 1 step hotter(!) than the N54 OEM Bosch plugs (ZGR6STE2). NGK 95770 are about one step colder than OEM N54. You'll want some Bosch with an index of 5 for the same heat index as the NGK 95770 (ILZKBR7B8DG - NGK's heat index 7 equals Bosch's 5). For Bosch plugs the lower the number, the colder they are. NGK it's the opposite, the higher the number of their index, the colder the plugs.
Both ZMR5TPP330 (OEM S55 and M2 N55 - the M in the name indicates they are for M cars) and ZR5TPP33-S (OEM N55) are not produced anymore and superseded by ZR5TPP330 and ZR5TPP33 respectively. Production ceased 01/19 and only remaining stock is sold.
ZMR5TPP330 vs ZR5TPP330 = the center electrode's diameter is different -> 0.8 mm vs 0.6 mm
ZR5TPP33-S vs ZR5TPP33 = interference suppression resistor is different -> 8 kOhm vs. 6 kOhm
Other than that, the spark positions of all mentioned plugs are different!
| Spark plug | Spark position |
|---|---|
| NGK 95770 (ILZKBR7B8DG), ZGR6STE2 | 5 mm |
| NGK 97506 (SILZKBR8D8S), ZR5TPP33-S, ZR5TPP33 | 6 mm |
| ZMR5TPP330, ZR5TPP330 | 7 mm |
What plug would you recommend or do you run?Adding my post to this thread, so it doesn't get buried. Maybe @doublespaces can add it to the first post?
Original thread: https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/bosch-spark-plugs.5839/
They're definitely not the same. The 7 indicates the heat index, which is 1 step hotter(!) than the N54 OEM Bosch plugs (ZGR6STE2). NGK 95770 are about one step colder than OEM N54. You'll want some Bosch with an index of 5 for the same heat index as the NGK 95770 (ILZKBR7B8DG - NGK's heat index 7 equals Bosch's 5). For Bosch plugs the lower the number, the colder they are. NGK it's the opposite, the higher the number of their index, the colder the plugs.
Both ZMR5TPP330 (OEM S55 and M2 N55 - the M in the name indicates they are for M cars) and ZR5TPP33-S (OEM N55) are not produced anymore and superseded by ZR5TPP330 and ZR5TPP33 respectively. Production ceased 01/19 and only remaining stock is sold.
ZMR5TPP330 vs ZR5TPP330 = the center electrode's diameter is different -> 0.8 mm vs 0.6 mm
ZR5TPP33-S vs ZR5TPP33 = interference suppression resistor is different -> 8 kOhm vs. 6 kOhm
Other than that, the spark positions of all mentioned plugs are different!
Sorry if any termini aren't exactly right, I had to look up some words
Spark plug Spark position NGK 95770 (ILZKBR7B8DG), ZGR6STE2 5 mm NGK 97506 (SILZKBR8D8S), ZR5TPP33-S, ZR5TPP33 6 mm ZMR5TPP330, ZR5TPP330 7 mm
Depends... since I have a N55, I am happy with ZR5TPP33-S. No problems (confirmed through logging) with COBB OTS, COBB custom, MHD OTS or MHD custom. Change interval was around 10k km or once a year.
Car is FBO, but will get a "minor" upgrade this winter (GTX3076R Hybrid). It's about time after five years FBO^^
After that, I'll probably go with NGK 97506 gapped to 0.6mm-0.55mm. That would also be my recommendation for a FBO N54 and beyond.
Since you want a gap as large as possible and as small as necessary, 0.6mm-0.55mm seems to be the sweet spot.
Also a good friend (and business partner) of mine @frontside0815 can tell you more about the application of the NGK 97506 in his (now sold) N54. His car was equipped with HP650 and TTE550 before that and as far as I know, they worked like a charm in combination with Delphi coils. I'll poke him to chime in.
Car is FBO, but will get a "minor" upgrade this winter (GTX3076R Hybrid). It's about time after five years FBO^^
After that, I'll probably go with NGK 97506 gapped to 0.6mm-0.55mm. That would also be my recommendation for a FBO N54 and beyond.
Since you want a gap as large as possible and as small as necessary, 0.6mm-0.55mm seems to be the sweet spot.
Also a good friend (and business partner) of mine @frontside0815 can tell you more about the application of the NGK 97506 in his (now sold) N54. His car was equipped with HP650 and TTE550 before that and as far as I know, they worked like a charm in combination with Delphi coils. I'll poke him to chime in.
Don't know if this has been mentioned but the n20 spark plugs are infamous for leaking combustion gasses past the metal and ceramic meet. Don't know why the n20s do this but they do.
Also stay away from the "M" plugs they are sooooo much more prone to cracking even with the most careful installer, they also randomly shatter the porcelain and drop it down into the cyl causing big big problems!
Also stay away from the "M" plugs they are sooooo much more prone to cracking even with the most careful installer, they also randomly shatter the porcelain and drop it down into the cyl causing big big problems!
You talking about NGK or BMW OE?
I am using two step colder NGK at .22 gap and no issues so far.
BMW Direct Ignition Coil - Bosch 12138616153
No issues.. cheap.. lifetime warranty. And made 1008/811 on them.
Also swapped during the dyno for PR coils to test and see if any gain or lost.. resulted on 2 HP/TQ diff not enough to say there is any gain or lost to compare with what I use. So changed back to those Botch. Selling my PR coils.. not worth the bulky setup.
That dyno was done on 1step colder plugs. May go 2step or 3 step if compatible. Any i put from ppl using them?
No issues.. cheap.. lifetime warranty. And made 1008/811 on them.
Also swapped during the dyno for PR coils to test and see if any gain or lost.. resulted on 2 HP/TQ diff not enough to say there is any gain or lost to compare with what I use. So changed back to those Botch. Selling my PR coils.. not worth the bulky setup.
That dyno was done on 1step colder plugs. May go 2step or 3 step if compatible. Any i put from ppl using them?
EDIT: Thanks your finding and reading my post. Unfortunately, Spoolstreet is no longer a neutral platform where we can have honest discussions on subjects and products freely.
For this reason I have deleted all information I posted on the forums.
For this reason I have deleted all information I posted on the forums.
Last edited:
I predict your stock coils will not last as long as PR or BL coils built for high power.
I just had a ton of misfires a few weeks back and when I changed the plugs, they had the fire strikes all over the porcelain. I put dielectric all over the porcelain.
I have PR coils and they were active in MHD. I have turned them off so running them like a stock coil, no misfires, and no issues since then.
I have PR coils and they were active in MHD. I have turned them off so running them like a stock coil, no misfires, and no issues since then.
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