Motiv Flex Fuel Installation Guide
- Thread starter doublespaces
- Start date
If you're throwing all those codes for the throttle I would double/triple check those pins. Both on the throttle body and in the DME and DME harness. Make sure no pins are bent and make sure the wires are pushed completely in the housing. All else fails try putting the factory wires back in and eliminate the eca all together for trouble shooting.
You need to turn off the car, take key out, then go ba k into car then stick key inside and turn on but don't start, WAIT 30 SECONDS, then press brake and start.This procedure mandatory, not some.optional thing. Your THROTTLE will NOT work if you do not do this.
I redid the throttle adaptations and waited the 30 seconds and car just cranks but no start. I rechecked all the connections again and they are correct.
So the car was working before I changed the Wire harness for the FF module. The voltage was reading incorrectly and showing 100% E when it should have been 30%.
I think next will be to check fuses?
So the car was working before I changed the Wire harness for the FF module. The voltage was reading incorrectly and showing 100% E when it should have been 30%.
I think next will be to check fuses?
I mean, the flash was fine prior to changing the harness.
I was going to flash an MHD map but it would be the long write.
I’ll go do that now and report back.
That sounds like a bad module. Same thing happened to me. I bought 3 modules so far. Original module lasted a year, installed second module, and I have third module in glove for backup. Still using original harness.
Same codes as before,
- DME active codes -
2CFA - DME: Throttle-valve potentiometer 2.
2CFB - DME: Throttle-valve adaptation value.
2D09 - DME: THROTTLE.
2D1D - DME: Accelerator-pedal module, pedal-position sensor 1, voltage supply.
I did a full write of the tune and managed to get the car started but still have erratic idle and codes listed.
I think matreyia is right, I think it might be a bad module as well. Can't be the sensor because that would not cause the weird idle, and the harness has been changed, which only leaves the module.
To test, this, reflash to stock, then make sure pprt injection is also disconnected if you have it. Flash to mhd ethanol flash if you still have ethanol in it...if not then flash to stock and test. When unit goes bad, the car will not be drivable at all. I had to limp back very low speed to home when it happened to me and had to stop and restart multiple times on shoulder lane.
You cannot flash stock if you have ethanol in it, you have to flash the proper mhd ethanol map depending on the percentage you have.
That doesn't remove his module or wiring job from the equation so in addition to flashing you should remove the harness as well. Then you can start bringing up returns etc. At which point does the problem start, exactly. When the module is connected to the harness? When the harness is removed? Etc.
I only disconnected the module's ground wire to deactivate it. No need to take out wiring.
If his problem still exists he will need to remove the wiring. I can't speak about isolating just the module so you're probably right.
Flashed it to stock and same thing, but the idle surging was a little slower then before. Problem remains.
I will flash back to my Base BQ map that is setup for FF and remove the ground wire and see what happens.
I'm speaking in terms of physical state. If the problem is believed to be the hardware, isolate the hardware you expect to be bad otherwise it's just kind of speculation. I didn't mention how to properly isolate the box, simply because I don't know how the box works or what is needed for the DME to behave normally.
Is your flex fuel module the style that has a 2 piece harness? Can you just unplug the module from the harness and see if your codes persist? Has the flex fuel setup ever worked properly?
