Car won't idle 2A9E 2CFB 2D09
- Thread starter doublespaces
- Start date
Yeah twice I'll try it again. I did the hold to floor thing also. Oddly, when I clear codes while it's running it misfires a bunch.
I did the flex fuel install today and seems I'm having a similar issue:
bmw.spoolstreet.com
With the exception I've got some camshaft codes also. I'll take another look at the pins tomorrow and hopefully my battery will have charged a bit.
N54 Stock DME Flex Fuel
I'm back to stock wiring and still troubleshooting. The throttle does not adapt and when I perform the throttle reset procedures it still comes back right away at ignition on. If I clear the 2CEC code while the car is running, I get past adaption and the throttle starts working but then it...
bmw.spoolstreet.com
With the exception I've got some camshaft codes also. I'll take another look at the pins tomorrow and hopefully my battery will have charged a bit.
This guy has a very similar issue and it was his alternator. Not sure if he means voltage regulator or the alternator itself.
Not sure what to do... Advice is very welcomed.
Not sure what to do... Advice is very welcomed.
www.e90post.com
It's not. I waited to let it charge all night since it was showing 10v. I think the battery is going bad, which sucks because it was a pricey AGM. About to go check the car now.
Just got a brand new H8-AGM battery from Advanced Auto Parts. Same problems. I also flashed back to the literal stock file on my car.
Currently:
2A9E - DME: Camshaft sensor, inlet, synchronization
2A9F - DME: Camshaft sensor, exhaust, synchronization
2ABD - DME: Boost-pressure sensor, overrun (this is new, maybe due to the 3.5bar tmap
2ACB - DME: DME master relay, activation (I thought this was due to the trans fan I added to the DRLs, but I'm beginning to wonder more)
2CFB - DME: Throttle-valve adaptation value
2D09 - DME: THROTTLE.
2DEB - DME: Power management, vehicle electrical system
3100 - DME: Boost-pressure control, deactivation
Also a couple codes for the fuel level sensors because they are unplugged.
I was getting a buzzing from the HPFP, but it turns out that is because my LPFP was unplugged for all the work I was doing and the HPFP needs fuel pressure apparently or it makes a buzzing sounds. Figured that one out courtesy of an old post by @The Convert
Currently:
2A9E - DME: Camshaft sensor, inlet, synchronization
2A9F - DME: Camshaft sensor, exhaust, synchronization
2ABD - DME: Boost-pressure sensor, overrun (this is new, maybe due to the 3.5bar tmap
2ACB - DME: DME master relay, activation (I thought this was due to the trans fan I added to the DRLs, but I'm beginning to wonder more)
2CFB - DME: Throttle-valve adaptation value
2D09 - DME: THROTTLE.
2DEB - DME: Power management, vehicle electrical system
3100 - DME: Boost-pressure control, deactivation
Also a couple codes for the fuel level sensors because they are unplugged.
I was getting a buzzing from the HPFP, but it turns out that is because my LPFP was unplugged for all the work I was doing and the HPFP needs fuel pressure apparently or it makes a buzzing sounds. Figured that one out courtesy of an old post by @The Convert
I've put the flex wiring back to stock and I put a multimeter to the throttle body harness pins. Getting between 3.x to 4.x volts on various pins. I unbolted the throttle body and it doesn't move when I watch while someone keys the ignition without starting.
Has anyone ever received the 2ACB master relay code before?
Has anyone ever received the 2ACB master relay code before?
I've been told that people with similar issues have fixed this problem by replacing fuse F37 and also the K6300 relay:
The fuse F37 seems to be fine, although I can't find my fusebox diagram to confirm. The K6300 relay is apparently on the back of the fuse box which means I have to tear into my car again while its already torn apart.
Based on the diagrams from TIS, shouldn't I be able to test pin 2 on X60003 of the small DME connector and know if the relay and fuse are good?
The fuse F37 seems to be fine, although I can't find my fusebox diagram to confirm. The K6300 relay is apparently on the back of the fuse box which means I have to tear into my car again while its already torn apart.
Based on the diagrams from TIS, shouldn't I be able to test pin 2 on X60003 of the small DME connector and know if the relay and fuse are good?
Problem has been fixed, all codes have been resolved by changing fuse F37. I checked earlier but looked at the wrong diagram, I needed to locate and check my own fusebox diagram.
This fuse and relay X60003 power a bunch of sensors and apparently the throttle body relies on it. Without starting the car, I can now see the throttle blade twitch during ignition on.
This fuse and relay X60003 power a bunch of sensors and apparently the throttle body relies on it. Without starting the car, I can now see the throttle blade twitch during ignition on.
2 -3 years ago it ran lol we hung out a few times and he gave me a ride in that thing. sounds really good haha
also tyler becareful next time that manifold comes off, your probably shorted something on the starter cable
Main issue is my motivation to work on it is usually outdone by my interest to change things. Coupled with waiting for product releases, it's basically the perfect storm to be constantly torn apart.
But no, I don't get to drive it much and it sucks.
But no, I don't get to drive it much and it sucks.
Your video remotivated me. I'm hoping xHP will be out by that time, I'd love to see stock clutches holding 700ish
Similar threads
- Question
